Fly Fishing Rods

Fly fishing line setup?

Posted by admin on Saturday, February 20th, 2010

Filed in Fly Fishing Rods | 6 responses so far

6 Responses to “Fly fishing line setup?”

1. 

   Fisher_Kingon 20 Feb 2010 at 7:58 pm 1

   Backing- usually a Dacron material at least 75 FT.

   Fly line- As a new fly-fisherman use a “Weight-forward Floating”. Don’t “skimp” on your fly-line. You “get what you pay for” in a fly-line. Spend at least $39-$50. In other words, don’t purchase your fly-line from the discontinued/bargain basement bin at Walmart. If you do, it will affect your casting and possibly even break, (on a large fish).

   Leader- Depends on what your fishing for. You can make a tapered leader yourself by purchasing some 10LB, 8LB, & 6LB Mono. In 3 FT segments tie a blood knot to each. If your after spooky trout tie 8LB, 6LB, & 4LB.

   (Http://www.cabelas.com has a guide to what the “X” sizes mean and what species of fish they would be designed for.)

   Tippet- a tippet is the last 2FT section of your leader. You COULD use wire, flurocarbon, heavier Mono, Etc. Again, this depends on what your fishing for.

   Hope this helps ya? Good fishing!

2. 

   Brook Eon 20 Feb 2010 at 8:32 pm 2

   Flyfishing can be overwhelming to a beginner. But don’t let it throw you. Keep in mind several things:

   1. 90% of your casting will be a simple forward cast using a floating line.

   2. 90% of the fish you catch will be hooked within 20 feet.

   Given that, don’t worry about all the choices. Start with a weight-forward floating line balanced to your rod. The identification on that will be WF-F-#.

   Backing serves several purposes. Chances are, however, that as a beginner you’ll never see your backing again, once it’s on the reel. It’s only function, for you, is to cushion the reel, and to keep the loops of the flyline as open as possible. To load it, first spool your flyline. Attach the backing and reel in enough of it to just fill the spool. Remove everything and reverse it, so that the backing goes on first.

   Your leader goes on next. Leaders, for the most part, are tapered mono that reduces the diameter of the flyline so you can attach a fly. They come in various lengths and designations using an X. So you might find one that’s 7 1/2′ 4X. The larger the X number, the thinner the diameter of the leader.

   Tippits take the tapering down even further. Typically, the last 18-24 inches are the tippit. As you change flies you keep shortening it, and, eventually, have to tie on another section.

   Here are some additional flyfishing tips for beginners:

3. 

   AIRFLOWon 20 Feb 2010 at 9:08 pm 3

   Some great answers already! Kudos!

   It seems like you have grasped the concept of fly fishing very well.

   Your set up should be as follows;

   Backing- to “fill” the spool-reduces fly line memory, and its that extra length if you hook a big fish, or are fishing for hard fighting fish on a light leader.(connect to the spool with an arbor knot)

   Next is your fly line- Good brands to look at in no particular order;
   RIO, Cortland(444), Airflo, Scientific Anglers, Orvis. You need a WF line, don’t be tempted to buy a DT, not until you are more experienced.

   Next you need a leader- although tying your own tapered leaders is cheaper and easy once learned its best to start out with a “knotless tapered leader” they are cheap and you wont go through many.

   My main reason for suggesting it is that it saves time when fishing.

   My last part of advice i can offer you-unless you know this already is you need a Medium to Fast action rod, nothing else, as it will help your casting when learning. As already mentioned, buy the best line you can, without it casting will be hard. With correct care it will last. A 6wt fly rod will be your best option of an all round fly rod.
   Fly line backing (20lb test will work for all rods except larger line weights for salmon, and saltwater)

   http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/pod/standard-pod-wrapped.jsp?_DARGS=/cabelas/en/common/catalog/pod-link.jsp_A&_DAV=MainCatcat20431-cat20437-cat20493&rid=&indexId=cat20493&navAction=push&masterpathid=&navCount=3&parentType=index&parentId=cat20493&id=0011213

   Tapered leaders

   http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/product/standard-item.jsp?_DARGS=/cabelas/en/common/catalog/item-link.jsp_A&_DAV=MainCatcat20431-cat20439-cat20518&id=0000946312779a&navCount=7&podId=0000946&parentId=cat20518&masterpathid=&navAction=push&catalogCode=IJ&rid=&parentType=index&indexId=cat20518&hasJS=true

   Arbor knot
   http://www.animatedknots.com/arbor/index.php?LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.animatedknots.com

   http://www.hooked-on-flies.com/lines.htm
   *update*

   You only need to add a length of tippet, when your leader becomes shortened from changing flies. Depending on the tapered leader you can go about 1 ft before adding a tippet of co-polymer or fluorocarbon.

   Reason for using a WF line?

   Beginners will constantly struggle to aerialise the full head of a DT line, mainly due to an in-effective casting stroke and poor timing. Ive found that they find it a lot easier to false cast WF lines and on the actual cast and shoot the line with ease.
   It is true that a DT line can be reversed on a spool, but unless stored on a large arbor reel(and even then) you will find that no matter how good the line is; it retains “memory” which is very hard if not impossible to remove. Making casting harder. Also the length of the “head” on a WF line is (depending on manufacture) shorter and so easier for a beginner to use, thats why i suggest you buying a WF line.
   A WF line will last just as long as a DT so long as you take care of it, remove any grit and water, then clean and lubricate with a line cleaner like RIOs agent X formula.

4. 

   e.b.on 20 Feb 2010 at 9:43 pm 4

   Yep, backing – fly line – leader – tippet…then fly!

   Backing: Use enough so the spool is *almost* full once you have your line spooled. 1/4-in from the edge of the spool is great. As for which type, Cortland Micron is excellent. Though it’s against common thinking, I’d suggest 30lb. The slightly larger diameter has advantages.

   Line: I don’t understand the unsupported suggestions for a WF line, when a DT will give you TWO tapered ends to wear out…which you can plan on since new casters tend to be rough on lines. SA, Cortland, Rio, Airflo and others all make great lines. If you’re indecisive, the Cortland 444 classic “peach” line is terrific. After several decades, it’s still the choice of many anglers.

   Leaders: Just buy a couple tapered leaders to start. Making leaders isn’t hard at all, but it complicates things unnecessarily. Standard “mono” leaders are fine. Orvis, Frog Hair, and Rio make excellent leaders and tippet material. Avoid Umpqua and SA.

   Learn your knots and practice them repeatedly!

5. 

   bassplayer_1313on 20 Feb 2010 at 9:55 pm 5

   and if none of these answers work, just hang a worm on your fly and dangle it off your dock. wf – weight forward lines carry all the casting weight in the last several feet of your fly line making casting a bit easier for starters. a bit easier for throwing into a breeze and possibly more distance. when you hit those spring creeks get a tiny outfit with a nice light double taper for delicate presentations. if you’re fishing wets, a fluorocarbon tippet is fine otherwise it may cause your drys to sink as it’s heavier than water. l can’t prove that though since l no longer use any fluorocarbons for anything. l tend to have difficulties tying knots with it that don’t break to easily and have good luck with maxima.

6. 

   JustAskingon 20 Feb 2010 at 10:10 pm 6

   This one may help you for christmas and good luck with it too. http://www.amatobooks.com

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